Sunday, December 14, 2008

Switzerland – An Overview

Sarah and I are now back in the UK, after returning here from Zürich on Friday evening. Our sincere thanks and gratitude is once again extended to Tom and Gillian for their generous hospitality, which was often punctuated with delightful and thought-provoking conversations across the dining table.

Snow had swept across much of Switzerland during the final three days of our visit, providing a very traditional wintery picture postcard look to the Swiss landscape and beaming smiles to anyone who may possess a pair of skis or a snowboard. While plenty was seen through the camera viewfinder and captured on memory cards, much more was observed by the naked eye and indelibly imprinted upon the grey matter resting within the recesses of my cranium.

Switzerland is a textbook study in contrasts; the very contrasts that truly make life interesting and made our 10-day working holiday all that more enlightening and enjoyable. Natural and architectural beauty abounded everywhere we looked, from the pristine snow-capped peaks of the Alps towering above the Bernese Oberland to the cathedrals and fresco-covered public buildings found in Bern, Luzern, Basel, and the many other towns that we visited. In a country that has long taken pride in order and cleanliness and invests a large percentage of its public tax monies towards that end, too many buildings were not adorned with ornate carvings and colourful storytelling facades, but defaced instead with graffiti left behind by self-proclaimed anarchists preaching a twisted homily advocating societal disorder. In one of the most highly educated and sophisticated countries in all of Europe, tobacco smoking is very prevalent regardless of age group and is permitted in restaurants and other public places; very reminiscent of how Paris and the rest of France used to be until just a couple of years ago, and with no indications of any changes occurring in the immediate future.

Street merchants sell their wares ranging from hats, scarves, and traditional folk art to paper bags filled with warm, sweet-tasting roasted chestnuts all along the same Bahnhofstrasse which also provides a home to Prada, Gucci, Cartier, Salvatore Ferragamo, and the offices of Zürich’s many private bankers. Standing alongside these temples of opulent consumption is a McDonalds where a Big Mac can be purchased for 12CHF (Swiss Franc), which is the equivalent of $10.15 (U.S. Dollar) or £6.80 (British Pound). The venerable banking institution Credit Suisse has not found itself immune to the current global financial crisis which does not recognise national borders, all while the fur coat-attired matronly women of Zürich’s cafe society promenade along the street below and meet for lunch in an oblivious existence reminiscent of the Phoney War period (called the Twilight War by Winston Churchill) during the opening months of World War II. Is this wrong? Am I making value judgements through my red, white, and blue-tinted glasses? Not necessarily. Call it Que Sera Sera (Whatever Will Be, Will Be), Life Goes On, or simply an attitude of Don’t Worry, Be Happy. Maybe the Swiss actually recognise and know something that the rest of us don’t (or refuse to).

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

We Love British Telecom (Not!)

Due to technical difficulties with my BT Openzone account which normally allows me the convenience of logging in online from practically anywhere in the world to check email and post my daily blog journal entries, I've inconveniently been incommunicado for the past two days. We're now back in Zürich, and my dispatches from Monday and Tuesday (Rheinfall and Stein am Rhein plus Bernese Oberland) have now been filed.

Bernese Oberland

The town of Interlaken, lying between the Thunersee and Brienzersee lakes, seems to serve just a single purpose: being a way station or jumping off point with two separate train stations for the skiers, snowboarders, mountain hikers, and climbers heading into the nearby Swiss Alps that tower high above the Bernese Oberland region. There is even a Hooters restaurant here where we grabbed a hamburger and bottle of Heineken beer shortly after our arrival. Staying in a hotel that seemed to specialise in tour groups from the People’s Republic of China, it was here that Sarah and I based ourselves for two days.

On the north shore of the Thunersee and the River Aare is the town of Thun (pronounced toon, as in cartoon). While a very beautiful town with its very own castle (Schloss Thun), in many ways is was an exact carbon copy of the town of Luzern, which we had visited last week. The catchphrase that Sarah has come up with is “medieval buildings, big church, Christmas market, on the river. Check.” Though quite enjoyable, the true highlight in this leg of our Swiss adventure was our early morning excursion to the nearby mountain area of Jüngfraujoch.

One train ride, coupled with a rack railway and three separate cable gondolas, found us atop the mountain peak of Schilthorn (9,744 ft) affording us a panoramic view of most of Switzerland, stretching to Germany’s Black Forest and the adjacent Eiger (13,025 ft), Monch (13,448 ft), and Jungfrau (13,642 ft) peaks (L-R in photo). This particular trip was also a bit of a pilgrimage for us because the Schilthorn and its Piz Gloria restaurant was the location for much of the principle location filming for the James Bond motion picture On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The film’s signature song, We Have All The Time In The World (sung by Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong) was played at our marriage ceremony and has become “our song” ever since. Another Hollywood spy thriller, The Eiger Sanction (starring Clint Eastwood and George Kennedy) was shot in this area, as well.

On the gondola ride back down from Schilthorn to Mürren, we met two fellow journalists who were writing a piece about the James Bond connection to Schilthorn for a French-language newspaper in Lausanne. They were thrilled to meet someone who is a bit of a 007 aficionado and was able to discuss the film for their article.

Today we depart Interlaken for the northern Swiss town of Basel and back to Zürich later in the day. As I peer out of the window of our train, a very heavy blanket of snow is evident everywhere across the countryside; it has begun snowing outside our hotel around 10:00pm last night. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, this truly is a winter wonderland that we’re travelling across. What a way to get into the Christmas spirit.

Rheinfall and Stein am Rhein

Accompanied today by Sarah’s cousin Gillian, we experienced a “two for one special” on Sunday by visiting one of Switzerland’s natural wonders plus a monastery town dating back to Roman times. Near where the Rhine River flows into the Bodensee (Lake Constance) forming an aqua border between Switzerland and the adjacent countries of Germany and Austria, lies the town of Schaffhausen and the majestic waterfalls known as the Rheinfall; the largest of its kind in Europe. While not of the size and magnitude of Niagara Falls, a constant damp mist still hung over us as we trekked to various vantage points to view and photograph the falls. Almost oblivious to the crashing waters just a few hundred yards away from them were two men in their respective small boats contently fishing away.

Boarding our second train of the morning, we continued up the rail line to the medieval town of Stein am Rhein, with its 16th century half-timbered buildings and houses painted with elaborate storytelling frescoes along the banks of the Rhine River. As with the many other cities and towns throughout the country, Stein am Rhein had a Christmas market taking place within its central square when we arrived. After feasting upon a lunch of calves liver and rosti (double-fried grated potato formed into a cake) washed down with a glass of the local Swiss beer, we began our exploration of the town that is overlooked by the former hilltop Benedictine monastery Kloster St Georgen. During the afternoon, a local brass band serenaded all within listening distance with a cheery blend of jazz standards and seasonal Christmas carols.

I am composing this journal entry from the comfort of the Swiss inter-region train which is transporting Sarah and I from Zürich to the capital city of Bern. From there we will be boarding another train which will whisk us to our destination of Interlaken, where we will be spending the next two days in the Bernese Oberland region and under the shadow of the Eiger, Monch, and Jüngfrau peaks.

Saturday, December 06, 2008

Bern

Sarah and I purposely took it easy yesterday, where the highlight of the day was our joining our hosts for an evening at Zurich's Opernhaus (Opera House) for a ballet performance of Peer Gynt. Afterwards, we treked across the street for a very tasty bratwurst, served to each of us wrapped in a paper napkin.

Today's adventure took the two of us to the capital city of Bern. With a picturesque setting on the River Aare and finely crafted buildings lining the cobbled streets of its medieval Old Town, this is one of the most stunning of Switzerland's many historic towns. Even though we were nearly soaked by a downpour of rain, Sarah and I still managed to stroll through the town's Christmas Market before eventually taking refuge within the modern art filled Kunstmuseum. Despite an overabundance of items of dubious artistic merit within its collection, we also had the opportunity to view works by Monet, Klee, Kandinsky, and Piccaso. Venturing back out into the market after the the rain had let up some, we had a lunch of very authentic Mexican soft tacos, served to us from a booth by two young women who actually moved to Switzerland from Mexico.

As we approached the Munster St Vinzenz (Cathedral of St Vincent), we happened upon Santa Claus accompanied by a very friendly little donkey named "Speedy." Going nose to snout with him, Doctor D (as Sarah often refers to me) exchanged pleasantries with the pint-sized equine that ended with a farewell nuzzle before we had to finally continue on our way.

Tomorrow we shall be traveling to Shaffhausen and Stein am Rhein to see the spectacular waterfalls of the Rheinfall, along with the Bodensee (Lake Constance) which provides a natural border between Switzerland and Germany.

Friday, December 05, 2008

Luzern

Yesterday found us taking a train journey lasting less than an hour to the city of Luzern (Lucerne). Both Britain and the U.S. could learn a thing or two from the Swiss in regards to a highly efficient and well thought out commuter rail system; this was one of the smoothest and most comfortable train rides that I have ever experienced, as well as convenient.

Originally built as a lakeside fortress, with a breathtaking view of the alpine Pilatus mountain peak, Luzern is now a medium-size city divided between the old and the new. After a quick stop at the tourism information office located adjacent to the vast train station, Sarah and I were on our way to visit and photograph the landmark Chapel Bridge and octagonal water tower. Within the roof line of the covered bridge are individual paintings illustrating Swiss and local history; many depicting battles and very graphic beheadings. The bridge's water tower has been used as an archive, treasury, and even a torture chamber. A few yards beyond the bridge is the Jesuit Church, with its Baroque architecture and very ornate pink marble interior.

While strolling about the town we happened upon a small outdoor service being conducted by one of the local Catholic priests. It was the opening day of the outdoor Christmas market, and a blessing of both the market and its Christmas Nativity manger was underway. After a performance of "White Christmas" by the musicians who were present for this event, we had a very cordial conversation with the priest, who in turn introduced us to the local transport minister and invited us to join the other guests for some complimentary white wine and finger sandwiches. Later, Sarah and I found a tea room where we had a warming lunch of sweet potato soup and a salami baguette.

Dusk was quickly falling upon us as we boarded our train for the journey back to Zurich. Upon our return, we joined our hosts for a traditional Swiss dinner of sliced cold meats and cheese fondue. A very pleasent way to end the day.

Wednesday, December 03, 2008

Zürich

With our Swiss Pass in hand, which guarantees us unlimited access to all modes of public transport and entrance to over 450 museums and other attractions throughout Switzerland, Sarah and I began our first full day in Zürich by taking a reconnaissance tour in and around this beautiful Alpine city. With a populace that is very cosmopolitan in its attitudes and lifestyle, serviced by a public infrastructure system that is by all appearances second to none, Zürich is also in many ways a contradiction coexisting with well-maintained and inhabited buildings, churches, and other forms of architecture that are hundreds of years old.

Strolling along the Bahnhofstrasse, which stretches from Bahnhofplatz to the edge of the Zürichsee (Lake Zürich), we passed the headquarters of several major Swiss banks along with upmarket shops such as Prada, Hermes, and Salvatore Ferragamo. While many symbols of opulent excess do abound within this city, the cobbled side avenues often led us toward sights which were more stimulating in other ways. St Peters Kirche, with a clock face that is reputed to be the largest in all of Europe, the Christmas market at Haupbahnhof train station, and the stained glass windows designed by Russian Jewish artist Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster (Minster of Our Lady) church were just a few of our stops. We paused long enough to join many of the locals in the food emporium of the Globus department store for a cheap and cheerful (yet very tasty) warming lunch of Thai Rad Na fried noodles and shrimp.

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Wilkommen to Switzerland

Leaving behind the near blizard conditions that most of Lancashire awoke to this morning, Sarah and I touched down at Zürich's Kloten Airport a few hours ago, beginning a working holiday amidst a gentle snowfall which will take us through many of Switzerland's many photogenic locales. Through the generous hospitality of a family member who maintains a home with a breathtaking view of the Zürichsee (Lake Zürich), this world-renown city of finance will be our base of operations for the next ten days as we explore the country for Christmas markets and other sights thoughout this Alpine winter wonderland. Immediately on our agenda are visits to Luzern, Interlaken, the Rheinfall near Lake Constance, plus anywhere else the Swiss rail system may take us.

A journal of our pre-Christmas winter adventure is also planned, so tune into this blogspot for your daily briefing.